The valley of the Apes

Searching for the Chimpanzees of Kyambura Gorge

The classic northern Queen Elizabeth vista, is one of open plains and massive Euphorbia’s, that dwarf any other tree. This is the landscape as you move south from the crater fields and over the Kazinga channel. South of the channel, the grasslands grow taller, and we turned left onto a small dirt(mud) road. 

Eventually the Landcruiser comes to a stop, and you’re greeted to 2 small rustic buildings and viewing platform. But where is the Kymabura gorge? Where is the valley of the Apes? After doing the necessary paperwork, we made our way to the platform. And there below us, below the tall grass plains, a thick matt of rainforest, 100 meters below. It’s one of those places that screams adventure and discovery. While we stand there, awe gaped by the scene of the hidden valley a Red headed Lovebird perches on a small bush. This place is so cool!

We descended the steep sides of the valley, fresh mud and thich air greet you as emissaries of the rainforest. The descent is steep, and after a short while, you’re standing in an amphitheatre of massive tree’s, the closed canopy seems to make the air thicker. Then out of the blue, howls and shrieks to the right. The Chimps are calling! “We need to move fast, the Chimps will start moving soon”, the guide says and a very determined trek begins off the track. We moved quickly through the thick brush, the Rainforest seemed determined to swallow us whole at times, as the creepers tangled around our feet. They call again, and this time it seems further than before, we just can’t keep up. The decision is made to get back to the top and make our way quickly to cut them off! The climb was punishing, but we made it, and we made our way as quickly as we could to the next path. We get to the path and descend to the river. The forest is spectacular, just the size of the tree’s is enough you start thinking, as the idea of defeat starts to take hold. Now they call, on the other side of the river. They’re close! But we can’t cross the river, the river is too high. A hippo snorts not far away, just to remind you. We also hear the splashing of water, as a herd of Elephants, tease us and do exactly what we can’t. We can’t see them, the rainforest is a screen of green at this point. The trek continues in the direction of the latest howls, but we’re walking along the river bank, hoping that we may catch a glimpse of them across the river. Another lifetime of strenuous climbing, mother nature doing all in her power to slow you as much as she can. Eventually we got into a patch of rainforest that opened up to the magnificence of the valley. We doubled back a little and then just out of nowhere, a Chimpanzee to our right. More in the tree’s over the river. We had them, it was incredibly hard, but good grief, it was worth it. We found one Chimpanzee, lying in a nest. She was in a good spot to be the day’s model. The dappled light from the canopy ensured that there was enough mystery, so we repositioned to get some foliage in the way and shot with open apertures. Waiting for one of the troop to vocalise, so that her behaviour became more animated and we were able to get the emotion we wanted. 

Photography in the forest is hard work. Had the Chimps been on the ground, that would have made my job a lot easier, but they weren’t, they were in the tree’s and the mid morning light was harsh and unforgiving, where it was allowed into the forest! The strategy was discussed and the best course was to stick with the one Chimpanzee that we had in a reasonably decent spot, where the light conditions weren’t going to kill anything we tried, and try different angles and positions. The hour flew past, and soon we were ascending the steep valley walls again. The adrenaline started to work it’s way out of our systems. Chimp trekking is an extreme sport, but the experience is so worth it. Not to mention the fantastic photographic opportunities in this incredible piece of paradise. 

I’ll be returning to Uganda in 2022. This land of Apes, is an experience that will blow your mind away. I’ll be describing more of Uganda in another blog, within the next few days. We continued south west, into the lava plains of Ishasha, and went in search of the Tree climbing Lions.